A buddy of mine called last week asking about building his first AR. First thing he said: "Why is everything so expensive now?" That's the tariff conversation nobody wants to have, but it's real. Upper receivers are running 20-30% higher than they were two years ago. Lower receivers? Same story. The 25% import duties that went hard in 2025 didn't disappear — they're baked into the supply chain now.
Here's what changed: you can still build a solid AR for under $900, but you're making different choices than you would've made in 2024. Some parts are worth the premium. Others aren't. I'm going to walk you through what actually matters and where tariffs have forced the market to shift.
The Lower Receiver Reality
Your lower is a regulated firearm. You buy it through an FFL. You can't avoid that, and honestly, you shouldn't try. It's the controlled part of an AR — everything else is parts.
Anderson Manufacturing lowers are still out there. You're looking at $75-$95 depending on whether you want coated or anodized. That hasn't moved as much as other stuff because Anderson makes their own and they're domestic. Aero Precision lowers are running $110-$130. That's a jump from what they were, and it's tariff-related — Aero imports their raw forgings.
Here's the thing: don't buy an 80% lower to save money right now. The savings game isn't worth the legal exposure. A couple years ago, people built 80 percenters to avoid registration or because they thought the regulatory window was closing. That ship sailed. Just buy a regular lower. Anderson is fine. It'll work. You'll save maybe $30 by going the 80% route, and you're buying tools and time you don't need.
Polymer lowers exist. Colt, Smith & Wesson, and some others make them. They're cheaper — sometimes under $60 — but I skip them. They're fine for shooting, but the trigger pin area wears. You'll notice it within a year of regular shooting. Not worth the hassle.
Upper Assembly and Barrel — Where It Costs
The upper is where your budget usually lives or dies. You've got two choices: buy a complete upper assembly, or buy parts and have someone assemble it (or do it yourself if you know what you're doing).
A complete upper from Aero, BCM, or Daniel Defense is running $400-$600 these days. BCM Recce upper? That's $550-$600 now. A year ago it was $450. The tariffs hit imported steel and aluminum hard. Most uppers come from overseas. That's not changing.
A 16-inch 5.56 barrel from Faxon is $90-$110. Ballistic Advantage is similar pricing. If you go with a really good barrel — a Criterion or a Proof Research — you're at $250+. Here's my take: for a first AR, you don't need a $250 match barrel. A $100 Faxon or BA barrel will shoot 2-3 MOA all day. That's plenty. Save the precision barrel for your second build.
BCG — bolt carrier group. Toolcraft is solid and around $110-$130. I've seen some dip to $100 on sales. Buy one that says "properly staked." That's the only detail that matters. The MPI stamp means magnetic particle inspection. Good to have, not required. Titanium bolts are lighter but more fragile and cost more. Pass.
Charging handle: PSA ($15-$25), Radian ($40-$60), or BCM ($35-$50). I use a Radian. Worth the money. But if you're budgeting tight, PSA works. You're pulling on it — it doesn't need to be complicated.
What You Can Skip or Cheap Out On
Furniture doesn't shoot. I mean that literally. Your stock, handguard, and grip don't affect accuracy or reliability. But they affect *you*, and that matters more than people think.
Handguard: Don't spend $200 on one. MFT, Magpul, or Midwest Industries at $100-$150 is fine. Your first AR doesn't need a $200 Geissele or a $180 Radian. Those are upgrades you buy when you know what you want. Magpul MOE handguards are $50-$70 used to spec. Buy one.
Stock: Magpul CTR or MOE is $40-$60. SBA3 brace if you're running a pistol (different discussion). Don't buy a $150 stock for a rifle that shoots 2-3 MOA. You're throwing money away.
Grip: Magpul K2 ($20-$30). Radian Talon ($35-$45). Both are good. Spend $25 and move on. This is not where builds win or lose.
Dust cover and forward assist: You don't need them. Serious people sometimes run without. They add weight and complexity for almost nothing. If you want them — fine, $30 combined. But don't feel like you have to.
Gas System and Reliability
Carbine-length gas tube is standard. Mid-length is smoother but more finicky. Rifle-length is overkill unless you're building a 20-inch rifle. Stick with carbine.
Gas tube: $20-$30. Doesn't matter much. Ballistic Advantage, Faxon, it's all the same.
Bolt to barrel fit: This is where you don't cut corners. Make sure your barrel is properly seated. Make sure your gas tube is the right length. Make sure your BCG is in spec. These things are cheap, but getting them wrong costs you reliability.
I've seen too many first-time builders skip the $20 headspacing gauge or buy a barrel with a weird dimple pattern that doesn't lock properly. Spend the money on quality barrels and tubes, not on cosmetic stuff.
Optics and Sights — Save for Later
Don't build the gun and then spend $500 on glass. Plan your glass *before* you build. Most people should spend 30-40% of their total gun budget on optics. That means if you're building a $900 gun, your optic is $300-$350.
For $300, you're looking at a Vortex Viper PST II, a Sig Sauer Whiskey 3, or a Primary Arms SLx. All solid. All better than whatever $80 optic you find on Amazon.
Iron sights: If you're running an optic, back-ups are fine. Magpul MBUS ($40) or Daniel Defense fixed ($80). The argument about which is better doesn't matter. One will work. Get whichever fits your budget.
If you're running irons only, that's a different build conversation. But 99% of new builders shouldn't be irons-only in 2026.
DownRange Bottom Line:
Build your first AR around a good barrel, a quality upper, and a fighting lower. Skip the expensive furniture, save your money for glass, and don't mess around with unregulated lowers. You'll spend $850-$950 and have a gun that shoots. That's the goal. Tariffs are real and prices are higher, but the fundamentals haven't changed — reliability lives in the action and barrel, not in the rail color or grip texture. Make decisions based on function. Everything else is negotiable.